Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Natural Oils for Skin-Barrier Repair: Ancient Compounds Now Backed by Modern Science

  • Review Article
  • Published:
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

Natural plant oils are commonly used as topical therapy worldwide. They are usually easily accessible and are relatively inexpensive options for skin care. Many natural oils possess specific compounds with antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-itch properties, making them attractive alternative and complementary treatments for xerotic and inflammatory dermatoses associated with skin-barrier disruption. Unique characteristics of various oils are important when considering their use for topical skin care. Differing ratios of essential fatty acids are major determinants of the barrier repair benefits of natural oils. Oils with a higher linoleic acid to oleic acid ratio have better barrier repair potential, whereas oils with higher amounts of irritating oleic acid may be detrimental to skin-barrier function. Various extraction methods for oils exist, including cold pressing to make unrefined oils, heat and chemical distillation to make essential oils, and the addition of various chemicals to simulate a specific scent to make fragranced oils. The method of oil processing and refinement is an important component of selecting oil for skin care, and cold pressing is the preferred method of oil extraction as the heat- and chemical-free process preserves beneficial lipids and limits irritating byproducts. This review summarizes evidence on utility of natural plant-based oils in dermatology, particularly in repairing the natural skin-barrier function, with the focus on natural oils, including Olea europaea (olive oil), Helianthus annus (sunflower seed oil), Cocos nucifera (coconut oil), Simmondsia chinesis (jojoba oil), Avena sativa (oat oil), and Argania spinosa (argan oil).

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  1. Darmstadt GL, Mao-Qiang M, Chi E, Saha SK, Ziboh VA, Black RE, et al. Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries. Acta paediatrica (Oslo, Norway: 1992). 2002;91(5):546–54.

  2. Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther. 2004;17(Suppl 1):43–8.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  3. Boguniewicz M, Leung DY. Atopic dermatitis: a disease of altered skin barrier and immune dysregulation. Immunol Rev. 2011;242(1):233–46.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  4. Doucet J, Potter A, Baltenneck C, Domanov YA. Micron-scale assessment of molecular lipid organization in human stratum corneum using microprobe X-ray diffraction. J Lipid Res. 2014;55(11):2380–8.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  5. Choe C, Lademann J, Darvin ME. A depth-dependent profile of the lipid conformation and lateral packing order of the stratum corneum in vivo measured using Raman microscopy. Analyst. 2016;141(6):1981–7.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  6. Weerheim A, Ponec M. Determination of stratum corneum lipid profile by tape stripping in combination with high-performance thin-layer chromatography. Arch Dermatol Res. 2001;293(4):191–9.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  7. Marino C. Skin physiology, irritants, dry skin and moisturizers. Washington State Department of Labor and Industries; 2006.

  8. Rawlings AV, Scott IR, Harding CR, Bowser PA. Stratum corneum moisturization at the molecular level. J Invest Dermatol. 1994;103(5):731–41.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  9. Hoste E, Kemperman P, Devos M, Denecker G, Kezic S, Yau N, et al. Caspase-14 is required for filaggrin degradation to natural moisturizing factors in the skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2011;131(11):2233–41.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  10. Loden M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003;4(11):771–88.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  11. Lebwohl M, Herrmann LG. Impaired skin barrier function in dermatologic disease and repair with moisturization. Cutis. 2005;76(6 Suppl):7–12.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  12. Ghadially R, Brown BE, Sequeira-Martin SM, Feingold KR, Elias PM. The aged epidermal permeability barrier. Structural, functional, and lipid biochemical abnormalities in humans and a senescent murine model. J Clin Investig. 1995;95(5):2281–90.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  13. Rawlings AV. Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function? Int J Cosmet Sci. 2006;28(2):79–93.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  14. Kezic S, Jakasa I. Filaggrin and skin barrier function. Curr Probl Dermatol. 2016;49:1–7.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  15. Sano S. Psoriasis as a barrier disease. Dermatol Sin. 2015;33(2):64–9.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  16. Osawa R, Akiyama M, Shimizu H. Filaggrin gene defects and the risk of developing allergic disorders. Allergol Int. 2011;60(1):1–9.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  17. Harding CR. The stratum corneum: structure and function in health and disease. Dermatol Ther. 2004;17(Suppl 1):6–15.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  18. Schmid-Wendtner MH, Korting HC. The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006;19(6):296–302.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  19. Elias PM. Therapeutic implications of a barrier-based pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis. Ann Dermatol. 2010;22(3):245–54.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  20. De Benedetto A, Rafaels NM, McGirt LY, Ivanov AI, Georas SN, Cheadle C, et al. Tight junction defects in patients with atopic dermatitis. J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2011;127(3):773–86.e1–7.

  21. Agrawal K, Hassoun LA, Foolad N, Pedersen TL, Sivamani RK, Newman JW. Sweat lipid mediator profiling: a noninvasive approach for cutaneous research. J Lipid Res. 2017;58(1):188–95.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  22. Hon KL, Wang SS, Pong NH, Leung TF. The ideal moisturizer: a survey of parental expectations and practice in childhood-onset eczema. J Dermatol Treat. 2013;24(1):7–12.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  23. Ghadially R, Halkier-Sorensen L, Elias PM. Effects of petrolatum on stratum corneum structure and function. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1992;26(3 Pt 2):387–96.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  24. Stamates GN, de Sterke J, Hauser M, von Stetten O, van der Pol A. Lipid uptake and skin occlusion following topical application of oils on adult and infant skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2008;50(2):135–42.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  25. van Logtestijn MD, Dominguez-Huttinger E, Stamatas GN, Tanaka RJ. Resistance to water diffusion in the stratum corneum is depth-dependent. PLoS One. 2015;10(2):e0117292.

    Article  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  26. Jensen P. Use of alternative medicine by patients with atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Acta Dermato-venereologica. 1990;70(5):421–4.

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  27. Kulkarni A, Kaushik JS, Gupta P, Sharma H, Agrawal RK. Massage and touch therapy in neonates: the current evidence. Indian Pediatr. 2010;47(9):771–6.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  28. Cooke A, Cork M, Danby S. A national survey of UK maternity and neonatal units regarding the use of oil for baby skincare. Br J Midwifery. 2011;19:354–62.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  29. Standard for Olive Oils and Olive Pomace Oils CODEX STAN 33-1981. International Food Standards: World Health Organization Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations; 2015.

  30. Basic Principles of Steam Distillation. 1995 [cited December 27, 2016]; Available from: http://www.fao.org/docrep/V5350e/V5350e13.htm.

  31. Yurdakok M, Yurdakok K. Topical vegetable oil therapy for premature infants. J Pediatr. 1997;130(2):330–2.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  32. Nakatsuji T, Kao MC, Fang JY, Zouboulis CC, Zhang L, Gallo RL, et al. Antimicrobial property of lauric acid against Propionibacterium acnes: its therapeutic potential for inflammatory acne vulgaris. J Invest Dermatol. 2009;129(10):2480–8.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  33. Cadiz-Gurrea ML, Borras-Linares I, Lozano-Sanchez J, Joven J, Fernandez-Arroyo S, Segura-Carretero A. Cocoa and Grape Seed Byproducts as a Source of Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Proanthocyanidins. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;18(2):E376.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  34. Verallo-Rowell VM, Dillague KM, Syah-Tjundawan BS. Novel antibacterial and emollient effects of coconut and virgin olive oils in adult atopic dermatitis. Dermatitis. 2008;19(6):308–15.

  35. Li AN, Li S, Zhang YJ, Xu XR, Chen YM, Li HB. Resources and biological activities of natural polyphenols. Nutrients. 2014;6(12):6020–47.

    Article  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  36. Wertz PW. Lipids and barrier function of the skin. Acta Derm Venereol Suppl. 2000;208:7–11.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  37. McIntosh TJ. Organization of skin stratum corneum extracellular lamellae: diffraction evidence for asymmetric distribution of cholesterol. Biophys J. 2003;85(3):1675–81.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  38. Prottey C, Hartop PJ, Press M. Correction of the cutaneous manifestations of essential fatty acid deficiency in man by application of sunflower-seed oil to the skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1975;64(4):228–34.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  39. De Paepe K, Roseeuw D, Rogiers V. Repair of acetone- and sodium lauryl sulphate-damaged human skin barrier function using topically applied emulsions containing barrier lipids. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2002;16(6):587–94.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  40. Blume-Peytavi U, Cork MJ, Faergemann J, Szczapa J, Vanaclocha F, Gelmetti C. Bathing and cleansing in newborns from day 1 to first year of life: recommendations from a European round table meeting. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2009;23(7):751-9.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  41. Nomikos NN, Nomikos GN, Kores DS. The use of deep friction massage with olive oil as a means of prevention and treatment of sports injuries in ancient times. Arch Med Sci. 2010;6(5):642–5.

    Article  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  42. Kiechl-Kohlendorfer U, Berger C, Inzinger R. The effect of daily treatment with an olive oil/lanolin emollient on skin integrity in preterm infants: a randomized controlled trial. Pediatr Dermato. 2008;25(2):174-8. doi:10.1111/j.1525-1470.2008.00627.x.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  43. Danby SG, AlEnezi T, Sultan A, Lavender T, Chittock J, Brown K, et al. Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care. Pediatr Dermatol. 2013;30(1):42–50.

  44. DebMandal M, Mandal S. Coconut (Cocos nucifera L.: Arecaceae): in health promotion and disease prevention. Asian Pac J Trop Med. 2011;4(3):241–7.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  45. Huang CB, Alimova Y, Myers TM, Ebersole JL. Short- and medium-chain fatty acids exhibit antimicrobial activity for oral microorganisms. Arch Oral Biol. 2011;56(7):650–4.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  46. Preuss HG, Echard B, Enig M, Brook I, Elliott TB. Minimum inhibitory concentrations of herbal essential oils and monolaurin for gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Mol Cell Biochem. 2005;272(1–2):29–34.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  47. Carpo BG, Verallo-Rowell VM, Kabara J. Novel antibacterial activity of monolaurin compared with conventional antibiotics against organisms from skin infections: an in vitro study. J Drugs Dermatol. 2007;6(10):991–8.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  48. Evangelista MT, Abad-Casintahan F, Lopez-Villafuerte L. The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Int J Dermatol. 2014;53(1):100–8.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  49. Agero AL, Verallo-Rowell VM. A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. Dermatitis. 2004;15(3):109–16.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  50. Nangia S, Paul VK, Deorari AK, Sreenivas V, Agarwal R, Chawla D. Topical oil application and trans-epidermal water loss in preterm very low birth weight infants—a randomized trial. J Trop Pediatr. 2015;61(6):414–20.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  51. Solanki K, Matnani M, Kale M, Joshi K, Bavdekar A, Bhave S, et al. Transcutaneous absorption of topically massaged oil in neonates. Indian Pediatr. 2005;42(10):998–1005.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  52. Norris LE, Collene AL, Asp ML, Hsu JC, Liu LF, Richardson JR, et al. Comparison of dietary conjugated linoleic acid with safflower oil on body composition in obese postmenopausal women with type 2 diabetes mellitus. Am J Clin Nutr. 2009;90(3):468–76.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  53. Sandha GK, Swami VK. Jojoba oil as an organic, shelf stable standard oil-phase base for cosmetic industry. Rasayan J Chem. 2009;2(2):300–6.

    Google Scholar 

  54. Wisniak J. Jojoba oil and derivatives. Prog Chem Fats Other Lipids. 1977;15(3):167–218.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  55. Aburjai T, Natsheh FM. Plants used in cosmetics. Phytother Res. 2003;17(9):987–1000.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  56. Picardo M, Ottaviani M, Camera E, Mastrofrancesco A. Sebaceous gland lipids. Dermato-endocrinology. 2009;1(2):68–71.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  57. Shi VY, Leo M, Hassoun L, Chahal DS, Maibach HI, Sivamani RK. Role of sebaceous glands in inflammatory dermatoses. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2015;73(5):856–63.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  58. Meier L, Stange R, Michalsen A, Uehleke B. Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne–results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forschende Komplementarmedizin (2006). 2012;19(2):75–9.

  59. Mosovich B. Treatment of acne and psoriasis: University of Negev, Beer Sheva; 1985.

  60. Ranzato E, Martinotti S, Burlando B. Wound healing properties of jojoba liquid wax: an in vitro study. J Ethnopharmacol. 2011;134(2):443–9.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  61. FDA. [cited February 12, 2017]; Available from: http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/cms_ia/importalert_89.html.

  62. Inoue H, Asaka T, Nagata N, Koshihara Y. Mechanism of mustard oil-induced skin inflammation in mice. Eur J Pharmacol. 1997;333(2–3):231–40.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  63. Ahmed AS, Saha SK, Chowdhury MA, Law PA, Black RE, Santosham M, et al. Acceptability of massage with skin barrier-enhancing emollients in young neonates in Bangladesh. J Health Popul Nutr. 2007;25(2):236–40.

    PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  64. Hanley K, Jiang Y, Crumrine D, Bass NM, Appel R, Elias PM, et al. Activators of the nuclear hormone receptors PPARalpha and FXR accelerate the development of the fetal epidermal permeability barrier. J Clin Investig. 1997;100(3):705–12.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  65. Elias PM, Brown BE, Ziboh VA. The permeability barrier in essential fatty acid deficiency: evidence for a direct role for linoleic acid in barrier function. J Invest Dermatol. 1980;74(4):230–3.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  66. Eichenfield LF, McCollum A, Msika P. The benefits of sunflower oleodistillate (SOD) in pediatric dermatology. Pediatr Dermatol. 2009;26(6):669–75.

  67. De Belilovsky C, Roo-Rodriguez E, Baudouin C, Menu F, Chadoutaud B, Msika P. Natural peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha agonist cream demonstrates similar therapeutic response to topical steroids in atopic dermatitis. J Dermatol Treat. 2011;22(6):359–65.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  68. Msika P, De Belilovsky C, Piccardi N, Chebassier N, Baudouin C, Chadoutaud B. New emollient with topical corticosteroid-sparing effect in treatment of childhood atopic dermatitis: SCORAD and quality of life improvement. Pediatr Dermatol. 2008;25(6):606–12.

  69. Kanti V, Grande C, Stroux A, Buhrer C, Blume-Peytavi U, Garcia Bartels N. Influence of sunflower seed oil on the skin barrier function of preterm infants: a randomized controlled trial. Dermatology (Basel, Switzerland). 2014;229(3):230–9.

  70. Cooke A, Cork MJ, Victor S, Campbell M, Danby S, Chittock J, et al. Olive Oil, sunflower oil or no oil for baby dry skin or massage: a pilot, assessor-blinded, randomized controlled trial (the Oil in Baby SkincaRE [OBSeRvE] Study). Acta Derm Venereol. 2016;96(3):323–30.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  71. Nebus J. A daily oat-based skin care regimen for atopic skin. J Am Acad Dermatology. 2009;60(3):AB67.

    Google Scholar 

  72. Cerio R, Dohil M, Jeanine D, Magina S, Mahe E, Stratigos AJ. Mechanism of action and clinical benefits of colloidal oatmeal for dermatologic practice. J Drugs Dermatol. 2010;9(9):1116–20.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  73. Hansen HS, Jensen B. Essential function of linoleic acid esterified in acylglucosylceramide and acylceramide in maintaining the epidermal water permeability barrier. Evidence from feeding studies with oleate, linoleate, arachidonate, columbinate and alpha-linolenate. Biochem Biophys Acta. 1985;834(3):357–63.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  74. Youngs VL. Oat lipids. Cereal Chem. 1978;55(5):591–7.

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  75. Sur R, Nigam A, Grote D, Liebel F, Southall MD. Avenanthramides, polyphenols from oats, exhibit anti-inflammatory and anti-itch activity. Arch Dermatol Res. 2008;300(10):569–74.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  76. Reynertson KA, Garay M, Nebus J, Chon S, Kaur S, Mahmood K, et al. Anti-inflammatory activities of colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa) contribute to the effectiveness of oats in treatment of itch associated with dry, irritated skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2015;14(1):43–8.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  77. Chon SH, Tannahill R, Yao X, Southall MD, Pappas A. Keratinocyte differentiation and upregulation of ceramide synthesis induced by an oat lipid extract via the activation of PPAR pathways. Exp Dermatol. 2015;24(4):290–5.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  78. Mengeaud V, Phulpin C, Bacquey A, Boralevi F, Schmitt AM, Taieb A. An innovative oat-based sterile emollient cream in the maintenance therapy of childhood atopic dermatitis. Pediatr Dermatol. 2015;32(2):208–15.

  79. Southall M, Pappas A, Nystrand G, Nebus J. Oat Oil Improves the Skin Barrier. In: Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc, editor. Supplement to The Dermatologist; 2012.

  80. Pootongkam S, Nedorost S. Oat and wheat as contact allergens in personal care products. Dermatitis. 2013;24(6):291–5.

  81. Guillaume D, Charrouf Z. Argan oil and other argan products: use in dermocosmetology. Eur J Lipid Sci Technol. 2011;113(4):403–8.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  82. Charrouf Z, Guillaume D, Driouich A. Argan tree: an asset for Morocco. Biofutur. 2002;220:54–7.

    Google Scholar 

  83. Boucetta KQ, Charrouf Z, Aguenaou H, Derouiche A, Bensouda Y. The effect of dietary and/or cosmetic argan oil on postmenopausal skin elasticity. Clin Interv Aging. 2015;10:339–49.

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  84. Dobrev H. Clinical and instrumental study of the efficacy of a new sebum control cream. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007;6(2):113–8.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  85. Schliemann-Willers S, Wigger-Alberti W, Kleesz P, Grieshaber R, Elsner P. Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis. Contact Dermat. 2002;46(1):6–12.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  86. Ernst E. Adverse effects of herbal drugs in dermatology. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(5):923–9.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  87. Tolbert PE. Oils and cancer. Cancer Causes Control. 1997;8(3):386–405.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Dermatology, University of California–Davis, Sacramento, CA, USA

    Alexandra R. Vaughn, Ashley K. Clark & Raja K. Sivamani

  2. Drexel University College of Medicine, Philadelphia, PA, USA

    Alexandra R. Vaughn

  3. Department of Biological Sciences, California State University, Sacramento, CA, USA

    Raja K. Sivamani

  4. Department of Medicine, Dermatology Division, Arizona Cancer Center, University of Arizona, PO BOX 245024, 1515 N. Campbell Ave., Building #222, Levy Bldg., 1906E, Tucson, AZ, 85724-5024, USA

    Vivian Y. Shi

Authors
  1. Alexandra R. Vaughn
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Ashley K. Clark
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Raja K. Sivamani
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. Vivian Y. Shi
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Vivian Y. Shi.

Ethics declarations

Conflict of interest

ARV, AKC, RKS and VYS report no relevant conflicts of interest.

Funding

There were no sources of funding for this manuscript.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Vaughn, A.R., Clark, A.K., Sivamani, R.K. et al. Natural Oils for Skin-Barrier Repair: Ancient Compounds Now Backed by Modern Science. Am J Clin Dermatol 19, 103–117 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-017-0301-1

Download citation

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-017-0301-1

Search

Navigation