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Hautalterung und evidenzbasierte topische Anti-Aging-Strategien

Skin aging and evidence-based topical strategies

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Zusammenfassung

Anti-Aging in der Dermatologie beschäftigt sich zunächst und an erster Stelle mit der Prävention: textiler UV-Schutz und Sonnenschutzpräparate, Radikalfänger botanischen oder synthetischen Ursprungs und zellschützende Substanzen wie das Vitamin B3. Um frühe Zeichen der Hautalterung zu reduzieren, werden dann an zweiter Stelle Vitamin-A-Säure-Derivate, die in dermatologischen Rezepturen am besten überprüft sind, eingesetzt. Topische Rezepturen mit Östrogenen werden additiv eingesetzt, helfen aber nur, wenn die UV-Schädigung nicht führend ist. Chemical Peeling führt zu einer Zunahme der Kollagenbildung. Je tiefer gepeelt wurde, umso stärker ist der Effekt. Inhaltsstoffe in Cremezubereitungen können oberflächliche Hautfalten reduzieren wie Polyphenole oder Aminosäurepeptide. Modulatoren der Pigmentierung für ein ebenmäßiges Hautbild sind bedeutsam geworden für das Anti-Aging. Wachstumsfaktoren aus der Pflanzenwelt oder rekombinant hergestellt sind in Bezug auf eine Kosten/Nutzen- und Schadensanalyse nicht ausreichend untersucht. Komplexe Prozeduren wie die photodynamische Therapie werden für das Anti-Aging Bedeutung erhalten.

Abstract

Anti-aging in dermatology primarily focuses on the prevention of skin aging with UV protection (clothing and sunsceens), free radical scavengers (synthetic or botanic), and cell-protecting agents such as vitamin B3. For the correction of signs of early skin aging, retinoic acid derivatives in dermatological prescriptions are the best studied substances. Topical hormonal prescriptions are also an option if UV damage has not been the leading culprit for aging. Chemical peeling leads to a marked increase in collagen formation, the deaper the better. Ingredients in cream preparations can reduce superficial skin folds (polyphenols, amino acid peptides). Modulators of regular pigmentation are important for anti-aging preparations. Growth factors (plant extracts, recombinant growth factors) are not thoroughly studied regarding the cost–benefit and risk ratio. Complex precedures such as photodynamic therapy have an impact on the appearance of aged skin.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Klinik für Dermatologie und Allergologie, Hauttumorzentrum Wiesbaden, Helios Dr. Horst Schmidt Kliniken, Ludwig-Erhard-Straße 100, 65199, Wiesbaden, Deutschland

    C. Bayerl

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C. Bayerl hat Forschungsprojekte, klinische Studien und Projektberatung durchgeführt u. a. für Galderma, L’Oreal, Vichy, Roche Posay, Johnson & Johnson, Procter & Gamble, Beiersdorf, Sandoz, Wella, Henkel, Sebapharma, Allergan.

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Bayerl, C. Hautalterung und evidenzbasierte topische Anti-Aging-Strategien. Hautarzt 67, 140–147 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00105-015-3737-3

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